True Turkish Holiday-The Harem and Baths!

It was a sultry day in Istanbul, and our fine group of 16 congregated in the lobby of our Istanbul Holiday Hotel. How fitting, as today was a national holiday! Victory day for the Turks is a reason to celebrate. It was on this day in 1922 that Turkish forces repelled the Greeks and saved their independence. However, our group chose not to participate in the festivities, and instead paid homage to the Ottoman past of the fine city by visiting Topkapi palace, and the sumptuous Sultan’s harem. Sound sensual? In actuality, life inside the harem was far from the picture of idle luxury and seductive engagements painted by the kindly Europeans during the age of Orientalism. Instead, it was full of plots and intrigue, as every concubine and wife of the Sultan sought the next highest rung on the social ladder. This ladder’s apex was the position of mother of the Sultan, and many woman fought for this status. Of particular interest in the harem were the adjoining quarters and baths of the Sultan and his mother, as well as the “pool of the favorites,” where the Sultan’s first class ladies spent their time. In addition, many rooms in the harem were covered in painted tiles, and calligraphy adorned signs above entrances into the rooms. Almost every room in the harem also had a type of wood burning stove that came to a point at the top, something like a large cone hat. Views of Istanbul’s Asian districts were visible from a balcony off of one of the living quarters. A fine place to live! Also within the walls of the palace were the treasury, and a room of relics from the Byzantine and Ottoman eras. The treasury held many gifts from foreign dignitaries, including orders and awards, as well as tableware. Also among the treasures were a flashy set of chain-mail armor, decorated with gold, an engraved sword with a blade 6 inches thick, and a 86 karat diamond. The relic room held supposed threads of Muhammad’s beard, the staff of Moses, and the sword of David, among a variety of cagey artifacts. There appears to be a copious amount of Muhammad’s beard to go around, is all I can say! After this tour of the palace and harem, our group headed for lunch, and stopped at a cafe with cushions. They were so comfortable that many members decided that a nap was in store. After the late lunch, it was off to the hammam, or Turkish bath. Some were at first a bit apprehensive about the prospect of the baths, but it really was an enjoyable experience. First, the group paid at the door and entered the lounge area. Next, the men and women split and were led to different sections of the building. The bath was very warm and humid, and had a giant heated slab in the middle where master masseuses gave each victim a massage. After, the group was free to sit around in the sauna-like atmosphere, and then to shower and exit the bath. Fresh squeezed pomegranate and orange juices were being sold in the main lounge area. After the group rejoined, we were all so relaxed! Next, dinner was in order, and the group chose a restaurant, which Josh, our painter friend had recommended. The owner gave the group a great deal! 20 Turkish lira (the equivalent of about $14 USD) for a starter, a main course, and a drink. Very good, considering most of the main courses started at around 17 lira. The atmosphere was pleasant, with local artists playing some of our favorite songs in the background, and candles on the table. There may even be a video of us singing to put up somewhere around here later. After the meal, we spent some time just talking with the waiters, and then, being so tired and relaxed, and probably looking like the cat had drug us in when we arrived back at the hotel, we called it quite a day. (Hayden Cale)