We visited Sulukule a few days ago. This is the oldest Roma (gypsy) settlement in the world. One of the challenges faced by Istanbullus (residents of Istanbul) is the need to address the problems of modern life while living in an ancient city with many layers of history. This means that any time space is needed and/or there's a demand for housing or business space close to the main part of the city, there's always the dilemma of how to adequately preserve the past while making room for the present. One way this plays out is gentrification. The city has approved a plan to tear down Sulukule and remove its residents in order to build a gated community of new Ottoman-style villas for the wealthy. This has met with significant protest from the international community and UNESCO, but is still ongoing. Over the past year, the residents have been moved out to housing projects and their homes razed. There are still some people holding out, and there are many who congregate in the rubble-littered lots. We also saw people scavenging in the ruined buildings for firewood and other usable items. This is a tragedy for these people, and we tried to find ways to be respectful of what is happening here while at the same time taking photos to document the process and raise awareness around the world. This community is literally being torn apart and in the process historical and cultural treasures are lost. The neighborhood borders the old city walls, and this has also presented concerns, as many historians and archaeologists are concerned that the walls will be damaged in the process. Here are some photos of what we saw.
Rubble remaining after bulldozers destroyed a home. In the background you can see that some inhabited homes are still more or less intact.
Remnants of a life: couch, laundry, and the rubble of a home.
He called Sulukule his home.
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